The village of Chingchuan 清泉村

Chingchuan Village

Tribal Pride photo by Barry Martinson

Chingchuan is a small village in the remote mountains of Hsinchu County, populated by aborigines of the Atayal tribe. Formerly, the Atayal men were renowned for their hunting skills, while the women were famous for their weaving. Facial tattooing used to be a feature among both men and women as a token of adulthood or honor, or to differentiate them from other tribes, when headhunting was a popular practice. Since the Japanese colonial period, the custom of tattooing grew less common, until today it is rare to see elders with facial markings.

 清泉是位於新竹縣偏遠山區的一個小村莊,住在這裡的居民多為泰雅族原住民。在早期,泰雅族人以獵人頭和紡織技術聞名,黥面則被視為是成年和榮耀的象徵,也是泰雅族人的獨特傳統。但從日治時代以來,黥面已越來越少見,只有少數泰雅族老人的臉上還可依晰見到這傳統印記。

Old Woman of Chingchuan photo by Barry Martinson

Since Chingchuan is abundant with natural springs of hot water, the village was originally called “Wulai”, which means “hot springs” in the Atayal language. Later, the Chinese changed the name to Chingchuan, which can be translated as “clear springs,” also an apt name, not only because of thehot springs, but due to the presence of a sparkling river flowing through the village. The two sides of the village are connected by a series of suspension bridges.

清泉地區有豐富的溫泉資源,因此在早期被稱作「烏來」,在泰雅族語裡是「溫泉」的意思。後來,漢人改稱這裡為「清泉」,取其「清澈泉水」之意。因為這裡不只有溫泉,還有條清澈的溪水流過,溪水上有好幾座吊橋連接起溪水兩岸的村莊。

photo by Barry Martinson

Although many Atayal traditions were lost during the Japanese period of colonization and subsequent assimilation to Chinese culture, there has been a revival of aboriginal culture during the past 30 years, which has enabled the Atayal people to regain their sense of identity, expressed in weaving, dancing and songs. The Atayal have no written characters; nevertheless they have managed to pass on their language and knowledge of ancestors to each new generation. Today, the tribe is very proud of their culture. Through the efforts of schools, churches, government workers and volunteers, they now have a clearer idea of their past history, unique talents as aborigines, and future possibilities in an ever-changing world.

雖然在日治時期和漢化的過程中,泰雅族人喪失了許多傳統習俗,但過去三十年來,原住民傳統文化重新得到重視,泰雅族人也在紡織技術與歌舞傳統中找回了自己的身分認同。雖然泰雅族沒有文字,但族人們用他們的方法將語言和知識傳承給下一代。現在,泰雅族人已經找回了對自身文化的認同及驕傲。藉由學校、教堂、政府和志工們的協助,他們對自己文化的歷史背景和屬於原住民的獨特天賦有了更多了解。在瞬息萬變的未來裡,他們也因而擁有了更多屬於自己的機會和願景。

Visitors from acrossTaiwan,China,Japanand other parts of the world are coming to Chingchuan to visit the site where the famous historical figure, Zhang Xueliang, was kept under house arrest as a political prisoner for 14 years. Having kidnapped Chiang Kai-shek in 1936 to convince him to join with the Communists to fight the Japanese, Zhang was later arrested and brought toTaiwanwith the KMT in 1949 and given a former Japanese mansion in Chingchuan as his abode. This residence has been rebuilt and now houses a museum detailing the life and works of Zhang Xueliang, also called “The Young Marshall.”

遊客們從台灣、大陸、日本和世界各地來到清泉,造訪張學良的故居,這位赫赫聞名的歷史人物曾因敏感的政治身分在此被軟禁了十四年。1936年,當時又稱「少帥」的張學良脅持了 先總統蔣中正,要求其聯共抗日,是為著名且震驚當時的「西安事變」。事變失敗後,張學良遭到拘禁,並在1949年隨著國民政府到了台灣。國民政府將張學良安置於清泉的一棟日式住宅中並予以軟禁,而這個地方,現在正是蒐集張學良生平史料的紀念博物館。

As travelers arrive in Chingchuan to visit the Zhang Xueliang Memorial, many also trek a short distance to the hillside home of famous writer San Mao, who spent time in Chingchuan during the 1980’s, or take a refreshing dip in the nearby hot springs. The village has several artistic centers, including the beautifully constructed local primary school and the Catholic Church with its mosaics, murals and stained glass. There is also an assortment of local fruits, vegetables, and delicacies at the bustling riverside market. The Chingchuan river valley is framed by a backdrop of lush green mountains and an often misty atmosphere that brings visitors back again and again.

許多遊客在造訪了「張學良紀念館」後,會繼續往前走一小段路到山腰上的「三毛之家」,這裡是女作家三毛的故居。在1980年代,三毛曾駐足清泉,偶爾在鄰近的溫泉裡泡澡,啜飲大自然的清新氣息。美麗的國小和充滿馬賽克鑲嵌藝術、壁畫和彩色玻璃的天主教堂是村落中小小的藝術天堂;熙攘的河岸市場邊陳列著各色各樣的蔬果和食材;清泉山谷中籠罩著朦朧的美麗霧氣,背後映著的一片青山是這個村落最迷人的背景畫幕—這些自然氣息令人流連忘返,也令人想一來再來。

photo by Barry Martinson

Chingchuan is part ofWufengTownship, which is up the hill from Chutung and about one and a half hours east ofHsinchuCity. It is the last village along a winding mountain road full of breathtaking scenery. Most visitors go straight to the parking lot of the Zhang Memorial, where smiling faces greet travelers with aboriginal food and wine. After such a great welcome, it is also worthwhile to walk through the village and meet the friendly locals, cross the suspension bridges, sample the coffee shops, small restaurants andhot springs, and visit some unusual sights such as Yawee’s stained glass workshop or the wood carving and weaving center in the nearby hills of Mindoyo.

在有風的山路上,令人驚豔的美景帶我們一路前往位於這條路上的最後一個村莊,清泉。清泉在五峰鄉境內,位於竹東的山丘上,距離新竹市中心約一個小時的車程。大部分的遊客會先到張學良紀念館的停車場,迎接遊客的是充滿笑意的臉龐、當地食物和小米酒。在這個歡迎儀式後,別忘了到村裡走一走、認識當地親切的原住民朋友、走走吊橋、品嚐咖啡、逛逛小餐廳、泡泡溫泉,還有,別忘了「雅威鑲嵌玻璃工作坊」和「民都有雕刻園區」也都是值得去走走逛逛的地方喔!

Traditional Weaving in Chingchuan photo by Barry Martinson

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